Mean Well HDR-150-48

Mean Well HDR-150-48 — an ultra-slim, fanless DIN-rail supply putting out 48V at up to 153.6W. It's the clean-cabinet way to feed a 48V 3D-printer build: motion power for high-voltage stepper drivers (good torque headroom for fast Voron/RatRig CoreXY toolheads) and, on 48V machines, the bed/electronics rail.

What it powers

• 48V motion power for stepper drivers on boards that accept a separate higher-voltage VM input (many Klipper/RatRig/CoreXY setups run drivers at 48V for snappier acceleration while logic stays at the board's regulated 5V/3.3V).
• On a 48V-native build, the bed heater and main electronics rail — though note the 24V Voron standard runs bed + electronics off 24V; if you're following the stock Voron spec, you want a 24V unit, not this. This is for builds that have deliberately gone 48V.
• Pair a small 5V supply separately for the Raspberry Pi / host MCU and accessories — this unit is 48V only.

Honest spec

• 48V DC, 3.2A / 153.6W on ~230VAC mains; 2.72A / 130.6W on 115VAC. The rated current depends on your mains voltage — on US 120V you do not get the full 3.2A, you get ~2.72A. Size accordingly.
• Universal 85-264VAC input, ~90.5% efficient, fanless (silent, nothing to clog with print dust).
• TS-35 DIN-rail mount, step-shape 6SU body (105 x 90 x 54.5 mm). It clips onto a rail in your electronics bay for a tidy, serviceable install instead of an enclosed brick screwed to a panel.
• Over-load, over-voltage protection. Output trim pot on board (roughly 43.2-55.2V).
• No active PFC and no conformal coating. If you specifically want PFC for efficiency/utility-friendliness, look at the UHP series instead.

Wiring & safety — read this

This is a bare-terminal mains-voltage supply. AC line, neutral, and earth land on exposed screw terminals — there is no enclosed plug or strain-relieved cord. You are responsible for the mains side:

• Fuse and switch the AC input upstream (inline fuse holder or fused IEC inlet sized for this load).
• Bond earth (PE) to the ground terminal — non-negotiable on a metal-framed printer.
• Use a finger-safe terminal cover or keep the supply inside a closed electronics bay. DIN-rail end covers/terminal guards are cheap; use them.
• Ferrules on stranded conductors, correct wire gauge for the current, torque the terminals.

If you're not comfortable wiring mains to screw terminals, this is not the right part for you. Done correctly it's a clean, reliable, industrial install.

Why this form factor

HDR is Mean Well's slim DIN-rail line: it clips onto a rail next to your control board and breakers for a cabinet-style layout, where an enclosed LRS brick is meant to be bolted flat to a panel. For 48V specifically, the 3D-printer niche more commonly reaches for the enclosed LRS-200-48 (cheaper) or the PFC-equipped slim UHP-200-48 (premium kit-grade). The HDR-150-48 sits between them: premium build and the cleanest rail-mount install, but it is not the part the 48V Voron/Klipper crowd has standardized on. Buy it because you want a fanless DIN-rail 48V supply in a control cabinet, not because a build guide told you to.

On sale / clearance pricing — same Mean Well part, marked down.